Giant Lentil - Red mica and copper foil

DevonGlassLass

Just thought I'd show you the giant lentil. Not a perfect specimen but serviceable.

Made after Lorraine's instructions and a bit of a workaround of my own devising.

this is the other side which has the odd wave on the edge only and a bit of a glossier patch where the liquid polyclay was left

I put two coats of Klear on it and it isn't real shiny which is fine. Having read the little article on inks I see I shall need to do a coat of liquid polyclay (is Kato version ok with fimo clay) between the ink and the Klear.

Rainbow

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jellytot · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:50 pm Post subject:

Oh wow, I love that! Makes me think of deserts and hot weather

tanok · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:54 pm Post subject:

oh god, you are my polymer goddess!!!!

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ejralph · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 9:56 pm Post subject:

That is lovely!

As for Kato liquid on Fimo - short answer is I am not sure. I see no reason why not, but both brands have been reformulated since I last tried the two together.

Emma Daisy

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DevonGlassLass · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:14 pm Post subject:

Thanks Colleen, tan (you sweetie!) and Emma ! Thanks also Emma for the info on Kato liquid polyclay. I have tried the fimo version and it is a bit too opaque. Might try Kato on another sacrificial bit of fimo.

Giant lentil is destined for a knotted something or other if I can find just the right stringing. I do find fimo soft too soft. I'm going to try another giant lentil with classic fimo and see how that goes. Rainbow

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Hedgelands Glass Gems: handmade jewellery and stained glass. Now select designs available on Etsy -

ejralph · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:50 pm Post subject:

Don't forget you can leech the fimo soft if you find it too soft. (I usually do this to most colours in the soft range)

Just roll it out into a sheet and sandwich between some sheets of normal plain paper (NOT greasproof paper as I have seen some people suggest. That wont work)

Leave for an hour or two, weighed down by a Yellow Pages or something.

Then when you mush up and condition the clay again, you should find it firmer. If not firm enough, just repeat the process.

Just be sure to condition and really knead the clay well after leaching so that all the clay is well mixed together again.

Emma Daisy

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tanok · Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 10:13 am Post subject:

ooo top tip, that soft is reaalllly soft, too soft sometimes

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ejralph · Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:55 pm Post subject:

tanok wrote:

ooo top tip, that soft is reaalllly soft, too soft sometimes

Especially the mica colours!

Mind you, being old-school, I remember when fimo was so hard it took approx 18 hours to condition it and that was with the food processor ROTFL

We used to moan and groan - a case of careful what you wish for I think. Since most clayers I know would go back to the Fimo formulation of 10 - 15 years ago in a shot. Even if it was a bugger to get going!

Emma Daisy

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LoopyLou · Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 10:09 pm Post subject:

Oh, well done, Michele. Very Happy

That's a super looking lentil. Love the size. Wink

As for the Kato Liquid, I use it all the time on Premo with no probs at all. I would think it's OK on Fimo too. As you say, a small experiment may be called for.

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LORRAINE