Grr ... I'v been trying to roll a snake out of PMC (desired length 3") but the clay is cracking once it gets to about an inch.
Does anyone have any suggestions on where I'm going wrong or tips on how to stop the clay from breaking up?

Thanks,
Dra

A spray bottle filled with water is your best friend!

Find 'em in boots near the flannels

Emma

Hey Dra,

Ideally, use clay straight from the packet - it rolls out like a dream. Quickly squeeze it into a rough sausage shape (using cling film) before you start rolling it.

Try using a "snake maker" - either a posh bougth one, or just something simple like a CD case, acrylic sheet, or block of glass. Ideally something you can see through so you know what you're doing!

Be firm with the clay, you need to add a little pressure. And use looong and quite quick strokes, if you "faff" about it will take too long and start drying for you. Same thing with very short strokes (where you just roll back and forth over the clay a little bit) - you'll get nowhere.

If it still cracks, mist it with water like Emma mentioned, cover with a little tent of cling film and let the water sink INTO the clay, not just sit on the surface. After you've gone to make a new cup of coffee, you lift off the tent, make sure the surface is dry enough to handle (doesn't smudge off on your fingers), and then you can continue.

Never try to roll it whilst still damp, or you'll loose loads of clay into your worksurface, fingers, and roller or snake maker. Which is a bit sad.

If you still have no luck, you might also want to try Art Clay Slow Dry, which stays flexible for longer.

Good luck!

Petra

Hi, I have been to several PMC classes run by a friend of mine who is an instructor. I found when rolling out the clay it is best to have small damp paint brush and a pot of water to hand and keep the clay damp, not wet. This targets the clay and not your intire work surface. Work quickly and firmly with even pressure. Hope this helps.

I think you've got quite comprehensive answers here! The only thing I can add is to use a small ball of clay to start with. You do get used to the quantity you need but a little goes a long way!!

Rebecca

Yes, as Clarise say - brushing on water, using a paint brush (or simply the tip of your finger!) works beautifully to.

On very hot days (like the one we had in the studio the other day), misting is fine because it dries out so quickly anyway.

The most important thing is to not move or touch the clay whilst it, or the surface, is still damp.

Petra

Thanks for all the tips,
I think the warm weather at the weekend didn't help, so I'm going to give it another go now as it's tipping it down outside!

Can I be cheeky and also ask for some advice on my design just in case I need to modify it?
I'm making a leaf pendant similar to the one in my Tim McCreight book, where the stem loops at the bottom and a pearl is attached.
I want to extend the stem at the top of the leaf to make a wrapped loop then spiral the end.
I've made a mock up in fimo which looks ok, but as I'm new to PMC and this is rather adventurous for me I want to know if the spiral will be too delicate to fire. I'm using PMC3 and the spiral will be about 2mm thick before firing.

Thanks again,
Dra

I think that should be ok - I think I've pictured what you mean! It'll just be very delicate while it's clay! Try and get it as thick as looks right so that you've got plenty of metal. I would be tempted to not sand it or anything while it's dry clay just in case it snaps. You can always polish it up once it's fired.

I'm always happy to help with PMC problems, feel free to PM me if you need any other help.

Rebecca

I use 2 flat boards to make sausages (learned it in pottery)make a rough sausage place it on the base board and gently roll the top board over the top as you would your hand untill you have the thickness and length you need